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Advanced Techniques: Drastic Root Pruning
by Al Keppler

If we prune too much I will kill the thing…

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Fig 5. Feeder Roots do the
Real Work!
©2005 bonsaiTALK (Click to Enlarge)

This could be true. There is a fine line with doing any drastic pruning, whether on top or down below. The key is the health of the tree. If the tree is healthy and the pruning is done correctly, then the tree will reward the grower with many new shoots and buds. Flowers will be better and fruit will be larger. Leaf size can reduce smaller and internodes will be shorter. This is all due to the smaller more compact root ball. Remember the mirror thing, reflection.

During the course of a thread, here a few days ago, this fellow needed help on a small juniper. Many replies gave a wealth of information on how best to proceed with this juniper. The juniper had been drastic pruned. It was said that the tree could probably undergo a first styling with a small amount of wire. This would be about it for the season with the remainder of the year reserved for a rest period. Then the fellow concluded that he thought it might be best to go ahead and repot the specimen to a growing container. His reasoning was thus, “Since I didn’t mess with the roots, I should have no problem with repotting in a growing vessel”.

Why?  If one is not going to mess with the roots and prepare the plant for the procedures of grow out, why do it? Why stress that plant any more with this useless procedure? The whole purpose of planting a plant out to increase size is to gain maximum benefit. Not drastically pruning the roots before this procedure is setting yourself up for failure.

I think I’m ready, what do I do?
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Fig 6. Compact Root System
©2005 bonsaiTALK (Click to Enlarge)

Prepare the plant the year before the repot. Root rot should have be under control, soil mix should be best for the climate, and watering habits are now routine. Planting vessel should be prepared with the soil, screen and tie wires. If a growing box is to be used, it should be adequately ventilated for fresh air and provision for blocking it up should be made. If the plant is going to the ground, then a suitable hole larger than the plants drip line should be prepared*. (note; If the hole lies over hardpan and it is less than two feet from the surface, consider using a grow box.) Adequate soil should be prepared to fill the hole.

The actual procedure is shown in the picture portion. The timeframe for a growing plant should be an every-other-year affair. On completion of the first year, there may not be much evidence of increased growth. The increased growth comes in year two.
  • First year stabilizes the plant.
  • Then in year two, those new root fibers really start to do their work. This is when the increased activity and new buds are evident.
  • After year two, the procedure is started again. Root prune, then another year of growth. A tree could be left in for another year, but the revitalization of the root pruning really helps keep the tree tiptop shape.

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