When dealing with conifers like pines, here is a method that lowers a large branch from its base with a minimum of disturbance, and allows excellent results without waiting decades. This collected Jeffrey pine has fantastic bark, movement, and taper. It has tremendous potential to be a true specimen tree. However, its first branch is too upright. Its caliper is in excellent proportion to the tree, and could be brought down with guy wires, but the base would never move using that technique. We would be left with a downward-arching branch that looks like a fishing rod. Trying to bend this one with rebar and wire as it sits, would split the branch at the top, damaging the tree and producing a highly visible scar. So what technique will be used?

The Theory

Figure 1 - Click to Enlarge

When properly done, removing a wedge of material from underneath the branch will allow the branch to be lowered effectively and with minimum of scarring. This is a commonly understood theory for lowering branches, but proper technique must be followed. It is essential that the cuts be made so that both sides are exactly the same size. They must match up as closely as possible when moved together to ensure a joining of the cambium, just as in a graft. They should meet along a plane bisecting the angle of the cut, as seen below.

This will allow the flow of sap to continue, and the entire branch will survive with minimal trauma. So how is the actual work accomplished? This is very difficult or impossible to do alone, so be certain you have plenty of help.  This technique works equally well for raising a branch that emerges at too low an angle, but suitable anchoring points must be found higher in the tree.

The Practice

Figure 2 - Click to Enlarge

First the cut is made. After carefully examining the branch in question, and planning the plane of the cut, the first saw kerf (groove made by the saw blade) is made. Sometimes a single cut is enough and no other saw cuts need to be made. In this case a wedge was removed to facilitate moving the branch. Remember that when cutting, the branch doesn't necessarily have to come straight down. An angled cut like this can bring the branch back or forward as well as down.

Figure 3 - Click to Enlarge

You can see that the cut has been made and a portion of the wood removed. The edges of this wedge cut are cleaned up with a sharp grafting knife, and rebar (reinforcing rod for concrete construction) is being tied to the base of the branch, which has been protected with a rubber pad. This wire will be tightened securely so that the bar will absolutely not move when force is applied. The bar is at the bottom of the branch since the force is being applied downwardly. Notice that the wire to shape the branch has already been put in place. This will allow the wiring to proceed without guy wires and pads getting in the way.

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